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In Expat Life, Geek Talk, Images, Sreisaatv2, Travels, What's on in Cambodia

Thursday Postcard Hunt: Preah Khan awakens in the rain

Author sreisaatPosted on 9 Comments

This postcard is an old one in my album and it shows Preah Khan Temple (the back side), one of the captivating temples nestled within the sprawling Angkor Wat complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Unlike past hot summer visits, my Siem Reap adventure in July last year was in the middle of the monsoon’s refreshing embrace. My friends, seasoned Angkor explorers, swore by the rainy season’s magic, promised a magical transformation, and I was eager to see it for myself.

A a massive stump is what’s left of a huge silk-cotton tree with overgrown roots that used to stand there (see postcard for reference). The roots look like it’s strangling a part of the gopura wall. Some say they are actually supporting the structure. What do you think?
This is the West Gopura entrance. If you look closer, you will see two headless devarapalas guarding the entrance. For comparison, here is a photo of the devarapalas taken in 1942.

Preah Khan, translating to “sacred sword,” holds a unique charm despite its lesser fame compared to Angkor Wat or Bayon Temple. Built by King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century, it served a dual purpose: a temple city and a tribute to his father following a hard-fought victory. Here’s a walk through of the Preah Khan Temple, for those interested.

Leaving the hotel under clear skies, we breezed through the Angkor Archaeological Park checkpoints, armed with our resident (free) passes. Yet, as we neared Preah Khan’s eastern entrance, a downpour caught us by surprise. Undeterred, we hopped off the tuk-tuk and laughed at the absurdity of it all. We joined a mix of curious, umbrella-toting foreign and local visitors, to look at the intricate carvings adorning the causeway’s balustrades.

Crafted from ancient sandstone, these panels depict a timeless battle between good and evil – the seven-headed naga (serpent) carried by divine devas on one side, and the opposing asuras (demons) on the other. Sadly, weathering and looting have taken a toll, scattering fragments of these magnificent sculptures (heads, mostly) across museums worldwide.

Venturing into the rain-soaked forest, a sense of adventure surged through me. Imagine Lara Croft, but rain-soaked and determined – that was me, Zarah Croft, navigating a maze of ancient ruins. Our mission within Preah Khan’s main temple this time? To find a hidden altar, rumoured to hold a wish-granting image revered by many Thais, but unknown to most visitors, including ourselves until our Thai and Khmer friends told us about it.

Under the relentless rain, with only the temple’s partial shelter, we navigated corridors adorned with weathered stone carvings of mythical beings. Each sculpture, some vibrant with rain-washed hues, others cloaked in moss or lichens, bore the tales of the past. Each corner revealed mythical and spiritual beings, their details begging for examination.

Rainwater pooled on the floor, splashing with every step we took. It was like stepping back in time, a real-life adventure. Finally, after diligent exploration, and soaking wet, we stumbled upon the inconspicuous altar and its sacred image. Lighting candles and incense, we offered a silent prayer. My feet, submerged in the cool water, felt strangely connected to the past. In that moment, I could almost picture the kings and queens who once walked these very halls, their hopes and dreams carried on the wind. I could almost hear the whispers of ancient prayers echoing through the halls. My imagination soared as we continued to explore the other chambers in the temple – what if a devata, a heavenly being, or an apsara, a celestial dancer, materialized from the shadows? I’m fine with either, as long as it’s not an asura blocking my way! Lol.

Soaking it all in (literally and figuratively!) at the awe-inspiring Preah Khan Western Gopura. The rain couldn’t dampen this explorer’s spirit!

The persistent rain, far from dampening our spirits, added a layer of unexpected wonder. It evoked a childhood nostalgia for the Philippine monsoon season. Memories of playful splashes in puddles with classmates and cousins, a carefree spirit untamed by the thought of scoldings from our mothers and elders. A time of pure, uninhibited joy.

Preah Khan’s magnificence speaks for itself, but under the cloak of rain, it revealed a whole new layer of magic I have not seen and experienced before.

In Expat Life, Images, Sreisaatv2

Living with the Shadow of the Past

Author sreisaatPosted on 13 Comments

Please be aware: This post talks about the dark history of Cambodia, the Khmer Rouge genocide. It mentions acts of violence and brutality (with some photos taken during my visit) that some readers might find disturbing. If you are sensitive to such content, you may want to proceed with caution.

Cambodia is a country of stunning beauty, vibrant culture, and unfortunately, a troubled past. As a woman who’s called Cambodia home for many years now, I grapple with this duality constantly.

Take Choeung Ek, for instance. This seemingly peaceful commune, amidst rice paddies and palm trees, just about 15kilometers outside Phnom Penh, holds a horrifying secret. It’s the location of one of Cambodia’s infamous Killing Fields, the final stop for countless victims from the notorious S21 prison. (This is also another place I am not going to visit again.)

While I’ve been here for years, I’ve only visited Choeung Ek once, back in 2014. It wasn’t a place I sought out. Friends visiting from abroad expressed interest, and as a host, I felt obligated to take them despite my personal aversion to visiting sad places. Even as a resident, the prospect of visiting felt daunting. Even then, the experience stayed with me. The weight of cruelty and history hangs heavily in that place. A suffocating silence blankets the grounds, broken only by the rustle of leaves and occasional insects.

The towering stupa greets you as you enter; it is filled with the skulls of victims, a stark memorial to the estimated 17,000 people who were murdered and buried there. Every year, a Buddhist ceremony is held here, with monks offering prayers to honour these lost souls who met their end on these grounds.

The signs scattered throughout the grounds served as constant, jarring reminders of the horrors that unfolded here. Mass graves filled with women and children, execution trees used to bludgeon babies – these reminders are impossible to ignore. As I walked the paths, a heavy feeling of despair washed over me. It’s hard not to imagine the fear and suffering that unfolded here, on the very ground I was walking on.

Visiting Choeung Ek was a deeply emotional experience. While I understand the importance of remembering the past and honouring the victims, it’s a place that leaves a mark. As a woman, the brutality inflicted on women and children resonates deeply. The screams and cries maybe long gone, but the memory of their suffering lingers. Honestly, I can’t imagine ever returning.

This is just one facet of life in Cambodia, a country forever marked by its turbulent history. It’s a place of contrasts, where breathtaking beauty coexists with the ghosts of the past. This part of Cambodian history is a constant presence in our daily life. Living in Cambodia has been a profound experience for me with all the reminders of the past we carry everyday, but, it also opened my eyes to the warmth, resilience, and spirit of a people determined to heal and move forward.

See other posts on My Corner of the World.

In Images, Sreisaatv2

Skywatch Friday: Phnom Penh Downpour

Author sreisaatPosted on 7 Comments

Last Wednesday, Phnom Penh put on quite the show (or, should I say, downpour?)!

As you can see from the photo, the sky has gone full-monsoon mode. Those dark clouds definitely lived up to the rainy season reputation. To give you a better sense of the atmosphere, I’ve also included a short video clip below. Take a peek and you’ll see streets drenched in rain, and vehicles zipping by.

More sky photos at Skywatch Friday blog.